Great food flows from the fountains of Penazzi

Penazzi

Where: Harrah's

Hours: 5:30-10:30 p.m. Wed.-Sun.

Reservations: (702) 369-5084

When you put your name on the front door of a restaurant, you probably have either a powerful name or a big personality. Penazzi at Harrah's has the latter: a big personality in the form of Gabriele Penazzi.

The man and soon-to-be legend works virtually every night the restaurant is open, so you, too, will have the unique pleasure of interacting with him. Penazzi comes from the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy—famous for the ancient University of Bologna and the prosciutto and parmigiano from Parma. But if there's anything else you'd like to know, about virtually anything, don't be afraid to ask Penazzi, because he can expound on everything: sports, politics, design, history. He's a fountain of information and opinion, down to the difference between tortellini and tortelloni, and why the knives at Penazzi stand on their edge. Suffice it to say: He's quite a character, charming and effusive, and passionate about food and his all-Italian wine list. As he's fond of saying: "I love great food, great wine and great love. But not necessarily in that order."

It's "as we do in Italy" when you dine at Penazzi. The chef, Effren Flores, has extensive credentials and loves to work the room as well, making sure that diners are satiated and enjoying the subtle "twists" he gives to the menu. (How anyone could possibly leave hungry is beyond comprehension, considering the portion sizes and the abundant bread basket.)

Fresh off the new fall menu, start with the carciofini al limone (flash-fried artichoke hearts in a garlic, white wine and lemon-butter sauce); the delicate farm-raised escargot topped with pecorino-romano cheese; or the fonduta—a small cast-iron pot filled with melted cheeses that come with house-made Italian bread and veggies for dipping. The bruschetta here is refreshingly light, with thin slices of ciabatta crostinis smeared with pesto cream cheese and topped with marinated roma tomatoes. Tutto bene!

It's hard to say what is the star of the menu. The aragosta is a strong contender: a lobster tail pounded thin and lightly covered in bread crumbs before being pan-fried and topped with Sambuca and lemon. But there's also chicken sorrentino, layered with eggplant and provolone cheese, or saut?ed veal picatta. A Penazzi signature item that shouldn't be ignored is the succulent filet mignon, encrusted with porcini mushrooms and topped with garlic and grappa-infused mozzarella. If your Italian grandma made that one, she must've been quite a woman!

For a special finish to the sweet tooth, don't miss the Italian version of a baked Alaska for two: white and dark chocolate gelato topped with meringue and flambeed tableside. It goes perfectly with the strolling violinist playing "Arrivederci Roma."

Or, as Penazzi would say: "More? When is more ever enough?"