Food that is sooooo satisfying.

Mon Ami Gabi
Where: Paris Las Vegas
Open: 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 11:30 a.m.-midnight Fri., 11 a.m.-midnight Sat., 11 a.m.-11 p.m.
Info: (702) 944-4224

When Mon Ami Gabi opened at Paris Las Vegas on Sept. 1, 1999, the response to this traditional French steakhouse and seafood restaurant was simply overwhelming.

"Within seconds, there was a wait for a table," said Perry Fuselier, then general manager of the restaurant. And the waits haven't stopped.

Mon Ami Gabi is owned by the Chicago-based Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises group. Now an LEYE associate partner, Fuselier recently reminisced about the opening.

"It was amazing. From the minute we opened the doors, we were swamped. It usually takes a few months for a restaurant to develop a following. Ours was instantaneous. We probably have a larger local following than most Strip restaurants. Access to the restaurant is easy, making Mon Ami Gabi a prime local spot."

The most requested place to dine is the charming sidewalk cafe, a la France. Reservations are not accepted for this touch of Paris in the heart of the Strip where you can watch tout Las Vegas pass by. The patio has been expanded from its original 18 tables to seating for 140.

Chances are that diners will still have to be patient. Requests for tables outside never abate. Once seated, the pleasure begins.

Available at lunch are hot and cold appetizers—trout Grenobloise, mussels and frites, skate (a personal favorite) and mac and cheese a la Francaise with ham. Burgers, sandwiches, savory crêpes and quiche, meal-size salads, steak frites and savory onion soup au gratin are super.

The dinner carte features an extended selection of French bistro foods. A hearty country-style pâté is served with cornichons, whole grain mustard and country toast. The bread is, of course, crusty and satisfying.

Hanger steak a la Mon Ami with merlot butter is a butcher's cut that I can't resist. Prime New York with a bleu cheese sauce is just one of the many steaks. Each steak has its own sauce or flavored butter and a generous mountain of frites.

Mon Ami's kitchen offers a terrific grandmére's-style roast chicken, made with pearl onions, mushrooms and bacon. Aromas that warm the heart emanate from the dish, heralding its arrival. Frites, too, of course.

Dessert crêpes, profiteroles, Tarte Tatin and classic crème brûlée are some highlights of the dessert selection. I know, I know, you're counting carbs or calories, not waist-expanding desserts. So, have some fresh fruit and lovely sorbets, and you can depart with your tummy tucked in, head high and no guilt.

As for me, I'd never pass up profiteroles drenched with chocolate sauce or a caramelized apple Tarte Tatin. Share if you must, but have a bite ... or two. In addition to lunch and dinner, Mon Ami Gabi features Saturday and Sunday brunch.

Mon Ami Gabi's wine list includes a choice selection of red and white vintages and champagnes and sparkling wines. Wines by the glass, of course, and cocktails and imported and domestic beers. Ask your server about the wine director's daily suggestions.